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Reflected back at me, I seem to have on oversized golden pantaloons, seen just for my eyes. Youngsters sit in a rock pool pretending to be ocean creatures, meanwhile nearby sits a chatting legume in a display case, next to a towering stack of bedding. It represents the world of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s highly cherished authors. I find myself in the city of Odense, situated in the island of Fyn in the southern part of Denmark, to investigate Andersen’s enduring legacy in his native city 150 years after his demise, and to discover a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

Andersen's House is the city’s cultural center honoring the writer, featuring his original residence. An expert notes that in past designs of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. His personal history was explored, but The Little Mermaid were absent. For tourists who travel to Odense looking for storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, redirecting a primary street, created the chance to rethink how the local celebrity could be celebrated. An international design contest gave the Japanese company the renowned designers the commission, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the structure. The remarkable timber-clad museum with connected spiralling spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we talk like Andersen: with humour, sarcasm and outlook,” explains the expert. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “This is a landscape for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's created to make you feel small,” he says, a challenge achieved by clever planting, playing with height, size and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Author's Influence

He authored several personal accounts and often contradicted himself. The exhibition takes this approach fully; often the opinions of his companions or excerpts of letters are presented to gently question the his narrative of happenings. “The author is the storyteller, but his account isn't always accurate,” notes the curator. The result is a fascinating whirlwind tour of Andersen’s life and creations, thinking patterns and most popular tales. It is stimulating and playful, for grown-ups and children, with a bonus basement fantasy realm, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Back in the real world, the modest urban center of this Danish city is picturesque, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings painted in bright colours. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the traffic lights show the author with his distinctive characteristic hat, metal shoe prints give a no-cost guided stroll, and there’s a art walk too. Each summer this dedication peaks with the regular Andersen celebration, which honors the author’s legacy through visual arts, movement, stage shows and musical performances.

This year, the week-long celebration had numerous performances, most of which were without charge. While visiting the city, I meet artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I hear feminist spoken-word pieces and witness an amazing nocturnal display including acrobatic dancers descending from the city building and hanging from a crane. Future activities this year are lectures, family art workshops and, extending the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s yearly enchantment celebration.

All good magical places require a fortress, and this region contains 123 castles and estates around the area

Cycling and Exploration

Like most of Denmark, bikes are the ideal method to travel around in Odense and a “bike path” curves through the city centre. From the local hotel, I ride to the public port-side aquatic facility, then beyond the city for a route around Stige Island, a small island joined by a bridge to the larger island. City residents relax with food here following their day, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment angling, water sports or bathing.

Returning to town, I visit Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is inspired by author-inspired concepts and narratives. The literary work the patriotic piece appears at the restaurant, and proprietor the restaurateur recites passages, rendered in English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience commonplace in my visit, the local residents love a yarn and it appears narrating is constantly offered here.

Castle Explorations

Each wonderful enchanted locations deserve a fortress, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes around the area. Traveling briefly from town, I tour Egeskov Castle, Europe’s most intact historic fortress. While much of it are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the family home of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the princess. I ponder if she might sense a pea through a pile of {mattresses