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It's squash season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of autumn. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the combination of fresh ginger, chilli and palm sugar lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is loaded with aromatic spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which provide enhanced flavour to the strata of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week starts on early October, so how perfect to mark the occasion than with a rich, warming, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, make the vegetable curry component ahead of time and layer all components on the day you plan to eat.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Heat the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay and cloves, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the layering).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, cook for a brief period, then stir in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Pour in the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the heat, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing's stuck to the base of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the rice, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom pods and salt. Heat to boiling, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

To build the layered dish, put a tablespoon of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then top that with half the rice. Sprinkle half the saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala, then top with the caramelized onions. Top with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the remaining grains. Top with the rest of ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, cover with the lid, then bake on the center rack of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Remove of the oven, allow to stand, still covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the cover and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "pickling style" refers to flavouring a preparation using preserving spices, and the combination contains mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, cumin seeds, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. The blend also appears in various types of curries and stir-fries, such as this one.

Prep 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a moderate flame. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Mix in the ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the squash, chilli and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Pour a small amount liquid to the pan, season with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the heat, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the mango powder, stir well and present hot with flatbreads or naan.